City Guide - Germany - Cologne
Cologne (Köln) continues to delight as a city of contrasts. With its beginnings tracing back to 38 B.C., there exists a rich cultural history, exemplified through its significant antiquities and architecture. And yet in such a presumably staid environment, Cologne has flourished as Germany’s unofficial gay capital and an influential centre for the arts. As consequence, there is a youthfulness and vibrancy that pervades the city, where some 30% of the one million plus inhabitants are aged between 18 and 35.
The largest city in the Rhineland, Cologne is situated centrally and to the west, just 27km (17 miles) North of Bonn, 40km (25 miles) South of Düsseldorf, and 188km (117 miles) North West of Frankfurt.
The area was founded some 2000 years ago by the Roman legions, municipal rights as the capital of a Roman province first being granted the emperor Claudius in A.D. 50. Throughout the middle ages, Cologne developed as a major trading centre, religion providing the predominant foundation and influence for the development of the region. Once boasting the highest concentration of churches in Germany, the city’s Catholic past is represented today by its twelve Romanesque churches and the vast Kölner Dom, a landmark for the region.
Begun in 1248, the grand Kölner Dom took near on 600 years to complete. Considered a masterpiece of architectural design, it was built in the gothic style and currently holds the title of the world's largest church façade. In 1996 the site was added to the Unesco World Heritage list. From afar its 19th-century spires dominate the city, and within one can climb to the top to embrace the spectacular view.
Ironically, as a consequence of the devastation inflicted upon the city by allied bombings throughout World War II, a discovery of Cologne’s history that had remained a mystery for many centuries was unveiled throughout the reconstruction. Significantly, an understanding of the city’s influence and power throughout the early Christian era was revealed, the period when the bishopric was founded and a number of saints were martyred, including the patron of the city, St. Ursula.
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The thoughtfully planned urban development undertaken between the two world wars, directed by Konrad Adenauer, later to become the West German Chancellor, is vastly responsible for making Cologne such a pleasant city to live today. With its broad boulevards and extensive pedestrian zones, it is a landscape that continuously yields surprise for the astute traveller.
With such a rich diverse history, there exists a multitude of activities for which to occupy one’s time whilst in Cologne. And should an interest for the city’s historical past seem less than compelling, there remains much to amuse beyond the cathedrals and galleries. Indeed, Cologne is a thriving modern city with a lively youthful population. Fine shopping, exceptional food and a diverse night life are assured for those in the know.
Indeed, Cologne has gained reputation as a city that never sleeps, a reputation somewhat well justified. Catering emphatically to the nocturnally inclined; cutting edge cocktail bars, crazy discos, underground haunts and dance parties permeate the evening landscape and provide for a vast array of pulsating, vibrant and degenerate activities to amuse oneself to the early hours of the morning.
More conservative tastes are accommodated with a multitude of cinemas, theatres, museums and numerous galleries, the city increasingly being recognized as the fine-art capital of Germany. Recognized also as one of the world’s major international trade fair locations, 25 of the world's largest industrial trade fairs are staged at Cologne's Koelnmesse, including the Anuga, the Photokina, the Art Cologne, the Medienforum NRW, the ENTSORGA and the IFMA, the Internationale Bicycle Market.
Summer in Cologne is particularly appealing, the city adopting an almost Mediterranean air as locals spend their days outside in the many parks and cafés, and partake in a multitude of outdoor activities. However, it is in February that the city truly comes alive. Carnival, or the ‘crazy season’ as it is referred to locally, officially commences on the 11th of November at 11:11am, but it is in February (23-28) that the main events take place, the city converging into a huge party with parades and celebrations, fancy dress and over indulgence.Somewhat more sedate are the charming Christmas markets that appear throughout the city in the weeks leading up to Christmas, offering arts and crafts, mulled wine and home-made cakes.
From a culinary perspective, Cologne has much to offer by means of international fair, maintaining more restaurants per capita than any other German city and over 26 local breweries, each serving their own versions of Kölsch, a light, top-fermented beer served in slim glasses. Perhaps not so welcome for the modern pallet, examples of authentic regional cuisine include Himmel un Ääd (fried black pudding with potatoes and apple sauce), Rievkooche (grated potato cakes), and Rhenish Sauerbraten (marinated horse meat).
The neighbourhoods of Cologne which should find favour amongst more discerning travelers are Friesenviertel, an elegant and somewhat expensive area where media moguls and artists often congregate, and Belgische Viertel: via Rudolfplatz, which is renowned for its trendy restaurants and expensive apartments. The main shopping area of Cologne begins on Hohe Strasse by the cathedral, branches into Schildergasse and ends up on Neumarkt., whilst the more exclusive boutiques and designer stores are located to the west and north of Neumarkt: Pfeilstrasse and Mittelstrasse.
Overview - Historically significant, surprisingly energetic youthful city. Moderately sophisticated with an emphasis on the arts & culture. Above average scenic appeal. Moderately expensive. Languages - German and English. Tourism focus - historical, festivals (Carnival), trade. Recommended duration of stay - 2 to 3 days